21 day debate journey from Vermont to Missouri to Serbia to Slovenia and back
to Vermont, January, 2003
| Part One | Part Two |
Part Three | Part Four |
Part Five | Part Six | Part
Seven | Part Eight | Part
Nine | Part Ten |
PART EIGHT: SLOVENIA VISIT ENDS
JANUARY 17, 2003
MORIBOR TO LJUTOMER
Fortunately I did not have an early morning engagement
so I took the opportunity to brew some decaffeinated coffee and check my email
at the terminal provided right outside my room in the faculty guest quarters.
I was anxious to check for news of my father, who has been ill recently, and
while I was not able to look at all my email I was able to scan it and check
for phone messages from my office at home. Thankfully there were no bad messages
about this or other issues, so I was able to move on to the next portion of
my schedule.
I packed up my things and then Bojana and I bid a fond
farewell to these quarters as we proceed across town to the faculty of law
for a workshop with debaters from the University of Maribor. We took a taxi
and were soon there.
The
facilities were handsome and there were signs indicating where to go for the
meeting. There was a solid group of debaters waiting there for us. I began
working with them, and took this opportunity to be a bit more blunt and forward
with them since they were not high school students and could take it. I also
knew that they had high expectations for themselves, so I felt good being
playful but direct in my approach. I challenged them at one point to come
up with ten reasons why something was not true, and they ran out of ideas
after coming up with four. I then added three more and, as the rest of our
discussion continued, I would later come up with more just to show them that
it could be done and that they need to push themselves harder to invent arguments.
During this time Bojana was on the phone with Lufthansa
trying to rearrange my flight. I had a flight from Belgrade to Munich before
I flew from Munich to New York, and Bojana thought it would be easier for
me to take the train to Munich and then fly direct from there. In this age
of heightened security airlines hate to allow you to join your trip in route,
so it needed some negotiation. She apparently succeeded. Noel had suggested
that I just show up at the Munich airport and play dumb, but that seemed a
little risky to me, and I could take the train back to Belgrade if necessary.
Bojana's negotiations were a success, so I would be able to go from Ljubljana
directly to Munich to catch my flight. She said it took about 40 minutes to
accomplish.
| Maribor debaters at seminar | They waited until my taxi arrived before
leaving |
I finished my work with these students and urged them
to consider coming to the WDI international session this next summer, and
many of them seemed very interested. I also spoke with some of them about
the possibility of graduate study in the USA.
Anja, who always seems to be taking care of others,
produced some pastries and I had one, a delicious chocolate croissant, and
we wrapped up the session. We called a taxi and waited out front. The students
were worried about me and would not leave until the taxi had arrived, so we
carried on our conversations in front of the faculty of law. The taxi did
arrive after a wait, and a very tiny taxi it was, but Bojana and I could fit
into it. I bade them goodbye with some sadness. We got back to the guest faculty
quarters and fired up her car for the drive to our next stop.
We were bound for a small town called Ljutomer, in
the wine-growing region. Actually, a lot of Slovenia is a wine-growing region.
The drive was lovely, through small towns and villages, well cared for and
extremely quaint. Even the power transformers have been disguised as small
towers. As well, we saw so many churches. I was told that because of a decision
many centuries ago it was thought that no part of Slovenia should be more
than one hours walk from a church, so they liberally dot the landscape, often
sitting on hilltops so they can be seen from some distance. In this part of
Slovenia there were also many mini-churches that might hold no more than three
or four people and an altar. They seemed to be near the roads, and their variety
and loveliness impressed me.
We talked about the differences between Slovenia and
America. Bojana had been to the USA for a world schools championship some
years before, and she talked about her reaction to New York City, that it
had been so dirty and unkempt, as well as the obvious size and height of the
city. As well she was concerned by the domination of plastic fast food restaurants
and other template structures that dominate the other parts of America she
saw. It certainly was a valid point of comparison. Slovenia was spotless and
seems to have resisted such plastic and neon garishness, even though there
were American fast food outlets present.
Very quickly we arrived in Ljutomer and checked in
to a lovely hotel in the town center called Hotel Jeruzalem. That seemed to
be a name I saw on several signs as we approached, and I asked about it. I
was told that centuries ago when crusaders were on their way to the holy land
to fight they had stopped to camp here and had thought that it was so beautiful
it might as well be the holy land, so they decided to stay and settle there.
I can certainly understand that decision.
Before checking in we had lunch. Our meal had been
ordered by Liana Miholic, the coach (along with Martina Domajnko, so that
I could sample some of the true cuisine of that region. It was an interesting
cutlet stuffed with vegetables, ham, and cheese. We also had a dish called
zganci, made from buckwheat that was very traditional in this region. It was
fantastic, and my apologies to Melissa Wade for not taking photos, but I was
hungry when it came and just dived in. After the meal we checked in, and I
found myself in a tiny but modern and clean single where I stashed my bags.
| Head Master, Liana, author, Martina | teachers at the debate across the
curriculum seminar |
We then drove to the school where my afternoon session
would be. We would be going to Liana and MartinaÕs school, Ljutomer Gymnazija
Franca Mikalosica. We arrived and were greeted by Liana and Martina and I
thanked them for the wonderful lunch they had ordered. We met with the head
master of the school, a strong debate supporter who greeted me warmly. They
showed me to a very fine classroom and there I saw some 25 or more teachers
from all over the region who had gathered to hear me talk about debate across
the curriculum, the idea of using debate as a teaching method in a wide variety
of subject areas. Maxwell Schnurer and I had written a book about this published
in 2002 and it was a favorite topic of mine to discuss with teachers.
This is a firmly scripted presentation, for me, but
is nevertheless flexible and welcoming to their input and questions. They
were an impressive group, obviously very interested. They had come there to
meet with me after their full day of work, and I greatly appreciated that.
We went for a little over an hour and then we took a break for coffee, cookies,
and a smoke for those who needed it. I got feedback from Bojana that it was
going well and that the teachers had given her very positive feedback. I especially
enjoyed my brief conversation with the coach from Lendava, Renata Biro, who
had read and greatly enjoyed my journal from my trip to Chile.
After the break I surged on through the rest of the
material, easily done with such an attentive and inquisitive audience. After
I was finished they had some other interesting questions and then they filed
out. I, however, had more to do before finishing my day.
The
national television network had asked to interview me and a video crew arrived
at the school for that purpose. They set up in an art classroom (excellent
visual backdrop) and we got down to business. The questions were about both
debate and, of course, American policy towards Iraq. My energy level was still
high after such a good meeting with teachers, so I was on point, direct, and
full of, well, rhetoric. But then, I usually am.
After the interview we went back to the hotel to freshen
up before we went to the evening's festivities. Bojana had told me weeks ago
how I would enjoy that evening, and I certainly did. Liana and Martina were
to take us to a wine cellar up in the hills called Vine Cellar Jeruzalem,
for a real country meal and a wine tasting.
Liana picked us up and on our drive there, up steep
hills and over scenic ridges, I wished that I could visit in a warmer time
so I could stroll the lovely fields and vineyards. I was told that in some
spots you could see both Hungary and Austria from the ridges.
We arrived at the lovely country home and when we entered
we found a first roaring in a lovely ceramic and stone fireplace. A lovely
table had been set for us and our hosts welcomed us. They had worked long
and hard on this vineyard, and were determined to grow grapes and produce
wines in the traditional fashion. As we were greeted with some very tasty
sour cherry schnapps, I knew this would be a wonderful evening.
| Our table at the Jeruzalem Vineyards |
The food was all natural and all organic, and has all
been produced by them on their own land. The care in its production and preparation
was obvious. This conversation was lively and colorful, and I really enjoyed
the three charming and powerful women of Slovenia debate I had the pleasure
of dining with.
| Our hosts, author, Bojana | Three Slovenia debate women of power - Martina,
Liana, Bojana |
After we ate and stayed warm by the fire, it was time
to go down into the underground wine cellar for some tasting. We went down
the brick steps into the modest cellar and saw a number of large wooden barrels
each with a different name on it. It was explained to us how the wine is harvested
and produced, the way it is named after those involved in it, the nature of
the barrels, the quality of the land and thee climate, as well as some wine
lore, some of which seemed slightly patriarchal, but Bojana acted to deal
with that immediately in a direct but friendly fashion. I enjoyed hearing
the stories from a man who actually did all of the things he was speaking
about. The tasting was interesting, and we all picked our favorite wine for
a final glass. It was a real tasting, not a guzzling exercise in consumption,
but one of discerning, understanding, and choosing. It was cold in the wine
cellar but the talk, the company, and the wine kept us warm. Finally, we emerged
back into the toasty warm cottage. We took some photos and signed the guest
book. I said that I really wanted to return in October when the grapes were
harvested, and I was told that I was very welcome. I asked for another sip
of that delightful sour cherry schnapps before we went, and was honored to
receive it.
Liana drove us back to the Hotel Jeruzalem and we were
in a jolly mood. She talked about our plans for a morning radio interview
and then a workshop with her students. We were dropped off at the hotel after
the doors were locked, but an attendant let us in and we went to our rooms.
It was quite late and I was ready for bed. My nose was still dripping a bit
and my strength had been drawn down by the activities of the day, but I felt
very good.
I really like Ljutomer.
JANUARY 18, 2003
LJUTOMER TO PRIMORSKA
I
actually got to sleep in for a while this day, since my first engagement was
not until 9:30 AM. I went downstairs at the Hotel Jeruzalem and had a standard
central European breakfast (boiled egg, bread, some cheese, and a sausage
or so). Liana Miholic of the school met me and she prepared me for the radio
interview we were to do. She wanted to ask me questions about my impressions
of SloveniaÕs debate progress and my experience with students and teachers,
and it seemed like it would be easy. She would ask the questions in Slovenia,
and since she had supplied me with a list of the questions in English I could
just go ahead and answer them in English, which she would then translate into
Slovenian.
The
questioning went well and Liana did an excellent job. I finally got to talk
about debate as my sole subject in a media interview. I mentioned how impressed
I was that her head master had mentioned his interest in creating a debate
course at the school, and I also got to speak about the excellent job ZiP
was doing and what they needed to do even more.
The time flew by and after a reggae filled break the
last few questions ended the 30-minute interview. We went to her car and drove
to the school.
This day was an open door day, where parents, the community,
and students who would be entering the school in the next academic year were
all invited to visit and experience it for themselves. There had been both
Slovenian language and English language debates already that morning, starting
at 8 AM. When we arrived the school was alive with visitors and students.
I made my way to the same classroom I had used the day before and I met with
about 30 English language debaters from that school as well as from a few
other schools.
The session went well and lasted two hours. Once again,
they were excited about the use of the plan in debates and showed it. They
were a bit reluctant to ask questions at the end, but some of the bold students
showed the way and it ended up as a very productive session.
| Posing with some debaters in Ljutomer | In the debate classroom with
Liana and students |
As I left I signed the school guest book and said a
few words to the head master. Liana and Martina seemed very happy, and I had
been very impressed by these two most excellent debate teachers. Liana had
been to world schools international tournaments and was a real debate veteran.
We adjourned a few blocks away to a small pub for a
celebratory drink. The instructional part of my trip was now over. I toasted
to that.
One of my favorite people in Slovenia had been Anja
Serc. She had experiences some Vermont style coaching previously when she
had worked with Jethro Hayman, a Vermont debate graduate and now head coach
at Cornell University, and she and I had positive vibes from the beginning.
She was a graduate of this school in Ljutomer and had just returned from the
world universities championship in South Africa where she had performed with
distinction. As we talked in the pub she shared some of her South African
experiences with us, and I had seen her picture album previously when we were
in Maribor. Liana and Martina were there along with one of the local debaters
who had been picked for the world schools team Slovenia would be sending to
Peru, a most impressive young woman.
But, time was running on, and Bojana and I needed to
head off to our next destination. So, we took our leave and drove back to
the hotel. We had another delicious lunch there, and I made sure to try the
pumpkin oil (bujno olje) on my salad as Liana had suggested, and it was really
quite tasty and very distinctive. We grabbed our bags and stashed them in
Bojana's car and we drove off into the lovely countryside.
The seashore was our destination, the 50 kilometers
or so of coastline that Slovenia has, a region called Primorska, which is
where Bojana had been born and raised. As we drove down the major highway
we began to descend from the highlands and the snow began to vanish as the
temperature rose. We were bound for a town called Piran, a very old town located
on a beautiful peninsula that juts out into the Adriatic Sea. The signs became
bilingual, as Italian is also an official language of this part of Slovenia.
We passed by the port city of Koper and the traditional
seaside town of Izola, where Bojana had grown up. To get to Piran we had to
drive through the vibrant European tourist town of Podorosz, full of hotels
and stores, but that was not our destination. It was the ancient town of Piran
that drew us in. There is just one road leading into Piran, and usually cars
are nit allowed in without special permits, but Bojana talked us through because
were we staying at the Hotel Piran. Or so we thought.
The Hotel Piran was closed for another week or so because
this part of January is not the touristy season. We tried to stay at the Hotel
Tartini (named after a famous violinist) but it was also closed. So, we decided
to have dinner at a seaside restaurant and it was quite excellent, with as
real Italian flair. All of these towns had been part of the Venetian League
for many centuries, and had changed hands numerous times since the league
collapsed with the rise of the nation states of Italy and Austro-Hungary.
We lingered at dinner and I engaged in another comparison between the two
competing beers, Lashko and Union. I like them both.
We left Piran with the thought of returning the next
day and went to Izola, where Bojana knew of a place we could stay. And what
a place it was! It was he Hotel Belvedere and it sits atop a ridge overlooking
the ocean. They claimed to have no rooms but obviously they did, at least
when Bojana was done with them. My road manager was, once again, up to the
task! We checked into our rooms and I was stunned by the view from the balcony
in my room. I was most excited by the prospect of snapping a photo the next
day. I have made a travel journal tradition of taking photos from my hotel
room windows, and this seemed like it would be the best ever.
There seemed to be a large and jolly gathering in the
restaurant/club at the hotel, so we decided to join in. We took the last available
table. Bojana ordered me some schnapps made from a local herb called ruta,
and it was one of the most unique things I have ever tasted. It was warming
and I was glad to be celebrating the successful end to my speaking engagements.
There was a long table next to us that contained a
very large group of Slovenians. They were having a wonderful time, but they
also had a secret. They were a group of friends who would gather, eat and
drink, and then sing traditional folk songs in four part harmonies. They began
to sing without any introduction and I absolutely loved it. My favorite song
was one that Bojana told me was about frogs, and while beautiful it had elements
of frog singing in it. We stayed and listened to them for quite a while.
However, the events of the day caught up with me and
I was ready for rest. I adjourned to my room and took in a view of the ocean
from my window before dropping off to sleep. It was wonderful to be somewhere
so much warmer after so long in cold places like Vermont, Missouri, and inland
Slovenia.
JANUARY 19, 2003
ADRIATIC, ITALY, TRAIN
There was nothing scheduled this morning. Imagine that.
When I awakened I went out to my balcony to catch the view, and it was fantastic.
I got my camera and realized that it would take several shots to get it all
in because the arc of the view is huge. Off to the left is the coast of Slovenia
as it runs right up to the coast of Croatia just beyond the point, and then
a little to the right is the lovely blue of the Adriatic, with the shores
of Italy on the other side (and the white cliffs where Duino is), below us
the beautiful town of Izola, and then off to the right the coast of Slovenia
leading on up to Koper and then Trieste. It was, clearly, one of the more
spectacular views I have ever had from any place where I spent the night.
| The ultimate hotel room view - Hotel Belvedere in Izola - Adriatic Sea all
over and Izola on the right |
After quite a long while relaxing and enjoying the
view, I met with Bojana and we went back to the restaurant where we were the
night before and had some simple breakfast. BojanaÕs plan for the day was
to go on down to Izola and walk around soaking up the sunshine and the seaside.
Then, drive around and see some vineyards and the salt marshes, then go back
to Piran and have a long lunch while sightseeing, followed by a drive up to
Trieste so I could say I visited Italy on the trip (perhaps some coffee there),
and then drive back to Ljubljana, have a late dinner there near the train
station, and catch the night train to Munich at 11:30 PM. Lots of fun, but
still a busy day, but at least busy with fun.
We walked down into Izola and I found it to be extremely
charming. Izola is not as pretentious as Piran, but every bit as beautiful.
Lots of people were out walking with their children by the harbor full of
small boats. Since this is where Bojana grew up she also had lots of stories
about what used to happen in that building and which parts if town meant what
to whom. This made it a marvelously person tour of a lovely small town. I
especially liked the handicap access swimming facility and a specific beautiful
old house right near the water. There were also several small boats I admired,
mostly for their beautiful woodwork.
We drove up into the foothills and followed some really
charming small roads that brought us to small villages. The vineyards often
stretched along the landscape as well as a huge number of garden spots obviously
more lush in the spring and summer. Bojana told me that the goal of very Slovenian
is to have a nice large house with a big space for a garden, and there certainly
where many of those here. I got as good look at the salt marshes; although
I am not sure I got a good picture. It is a flat plain where stone walls have
been built so that when gates are opened salt-water streams in, then the gates
are closed and after the water evaporates they harvest the salt. The walls
are linked in a spidery network spreading out from unique stone buildings
at the points where the walls intersect.
| Incredible beauty in the small town of Izola |
We went back to Piran. This time we had to park outside
of town and walk in, but it was beautiful and much better than driving. Again,
there were lots of people from many different backgrounds strolling around
with us. The sounds of Slovenian, Italian, German, English, and perhaps other
languages bounced around us. We stopped at a lovely seaside cafˇ for lunch
and found a table in the sun. I had some seafood and some truffles while trying
liquor called grappa, probably home made our back out of grapes. I liked it.
We tried to drag the meal out for quite a long time so that we could be there
when the sun went down, and I got a good picture of the sun sinking into the
Adriatic from Piran.
| The beautiful city of Piran, and sunset on the Adriatic |
Bojana piloted the car into Italy. As soon as we crossed
into Italy things became noticeably darker and dirtier. I imagine this can
be because Trieste is an industrial town, but there was quite a contrast with
Slovenia. In Trieste center, however, we found a lovely square with marble
monuments and lovely architecture. We stopped there in the square at a very
ritzy cafˇ and had a couple of very expensive cups of coffee, but the little
biscuits that came with the coffee were fantastic.
We arrived in Ljubljana in plenty of time to catch
our train, and so we went to a small restaurant near the train station for
a farewell drink and a snack. I ordered something off the menu I had never
had before that seemed uniquely Slovenian (they love fried cheese, it seems)
and sampled some local schnapps for the last time in a while. We went over
the trip step by step and Bojana wrote down names of persons and places so
that I would (hopefully) spell them correctly even if I do not have all of
the special characters. At least I tried.
We went to the train station to catch the night train
to Munich. I did not have a sleeper reserved but they were available and I
would just buy one upon boarding. I was tired, not being used to a full day
of tourism without debate to recharge me (I am smirking as I write this).
It was cold so we waited in a very smoky pub in the station instead of freezing
on the platform. I had a farewell drink because my plan was to fall asleep
on the train as soon as possible.
It was time to board the train so we went to the platform.
Within three minutes of our arriving the signal came that the train was approaching.
It stopped and a conductor jumped off. Bojana had a brief conversation with
him and she indicated I should take up residence in compartment five and the
conductor dragged my bag up into the train. I wished Bojana good-bye and was
up into the train. I went down and locked at my sleeper compartment to make
sure that my bag was there, and then went back to the front of the car to
wave good-bye to Bojana.
I
have traveled far and wide for the cause of debate, but I cannot say that
I have ever had a better host and guide than Bojana. Part of it is that she
and her Slovenian partners have the debate networks there very organized and
healthy so that they could involve me in so many different events. The other
part was the great warmth with which they treated me and tolerated me. I view
Bojana as one of the great global leaders in the debate cause, but that is
also because she has done so well at the grassroots, in small villages and
towns all across her country. Her model would be a good one to emulate. I
am sure that our paths will cross again. If you were looking for a skilled
road manager, she would be excellent.
I settled down in my sleeper compartment. It was very
nice, with natural wood interior, with two roomy beds, a small table, and,
very importantly, electrical outlets. Soon my music was blaring, my light
show was pumping out of my iBook, and I was stretched out on the bed watching
the countryside go by in the moonlit night.
As the astronomical motion of the planet spun me into
a new day I fell into a relaxing sleep, rocked gently by the swaying of the
fast moving train.