Expedition #2 - to the beach

For our 20th wedding anniversary (and the last trip before the kids start school on Aug 21), we decided to go to the beach for a vacation.  One of the Mexican teachers at Baden-Powell Institute recommended Troncones: quiet, great waves for surfing (or watching surfers), lovely beach in a bay.  We drove four hours to the Pacific Ocean and found the tiny "town" of Troncones (an intersection of a paved road and a dirt road: several restaurants and hotels, several pigs that wander the road).  Just north of town is a little cove called Manzanillo Bay where we found the Tronco Bay Inn, a set of four two-story bungalows set back from the ocean but the only thing between you and the beach is a perfect  pool and palm trees.  Geckos gather at the lights at night, chirping to each other.  For the first 24 hours, we were the only ones there, making it the perfect get-away.




The beach was ours!
     




There was a small restaurant at the hotel, which we shared with a donkey that seemed to roam the beach.  We named her Donkey Jote; she visited us four times in our two days there.

   


We had to drive 30 minutes to Ixtapa to get money to pay for the hotel and on the way back, we stopped at a roadside fish restaurant for our anniversary dinner:




The waiter came to the table with three fish on a platter and asked us which one we wanted: for $25 we would get a dinner for four.  With our Mexican beers, it was a perfect anniversary dinner.  The fish was grilled, along with pieces of octopus, squid, shrimp, and scallops.  We were also served perfect rice, toasted bread, and a small pile of steamed vegetables.



Back to the hotel for a sunset walk on the beach and a refreshing dip in the pool.



The beach was still ours the next morning.  Surfers were out catching the waves, along with pelicans and frigate birds.  We found hermit crabs to play with.



With the pool right next to the restaurant, we could order dinner, swim for awhile, and then eat in our swimming suits (and drink some more Mexican beer).

   


For reasons that aren't quite clear, we decided to drive south to Acapulco.  We knew we'd never be this close again and we wanted to see what all the fuss was about.  Sarah needed a new swimsuit and Helen really wanted her to get one in Acapulco (we never did: all the suits were pretty risque or too odd: a camouflage bikini?).  




In a guidebook, we found an old hotel on a quiet bay: the Boca Chica.

View from our terrace, really quite idyllic:

       


Here was the "quiet" cove we were on: full of umbrellas, chairs, and people.




     


    We snorkled in the shallow water in the cove; it was the first time the kids had seen tropical fish.  The crabs made it risky to climb on the rocks to get in (they are hungry for toes!) so we just had to jump in and start swimming.















One of the most famous features of Acapulco is the cliff divers, so we had to go see them.  
 

They climb the rock face opposite the viewing platform where a crowd had gathered; they make a big deal of crossing themselves in front of each of two alters at the top and kissing the statues inside.  Then, one by one, they wait for waves to be just right and they dive into a narrow chasm and the ocean below.


   
                                                                                           This shows the cliff that they climb, the alters at the top, and the
                        chasm they dive in to.


We returned to our "quiet cove" to find it empty so the kids played in the waves while we watched the moon rise above the ocean.




Mexico wakes up slowly so the early morning (any time before about 10:00) is peaceful: dogs and pigeons cleaned up the beaches, early morning runners dotted the beach.

   

We drove to the beaches with the big hotels, where all the rich and famous people stay.
     


On the way home, we visited a mountain town called Taxco, known for its handcrafts and silver.  Like Guanajuato, it is situated on a hillside and houses precariously climb the slopes.  Unlike Guanajuato, where the houses were brightly colored, all the houses of Taxco are white with red roofs.


We found a hotel (Loma Linda) with rooms that overlook the deep valley below.
 

This is the view from our shower:



Here is a set of pictures that Margaret took of the market and streets:

   
   
 

Many shops have big bags of dog food right by the door; you can buy food by the pound (or less), but we wondered how many street dogs just stick their heads into the bags for a snack.  Here is a stall of beans and dog food:


We learned where all of the old VW bugs have gone: to Mexico.  In Taxco, they are used as taxis:



As usual, the town center is marked by the cathedral.