Published Feb .10, 2000

Kaiseki
Related story: Kaiseki, described 
A treat for the eye, pleasure for the palate

By Jerry Shriver, USA TODAY

NEW YORK - For about $100, Nao Sugiyama can alleviate wanderlust and 
winter blahs, rejuvenate all five senses, ignite your inner samurai and 
cause a bottle of sake to evaporate.

Sugiyama, 45, is the chef/owner of the same-named Manhattan restaurant, 
where he has been thrilling diners with his modern interpretation of a 
Japanese culinary tradition . 

"This is not an everyday dinner like sushi," he says. That's an 
understatement. Kaiseki (kie-SEK-ee), which emerged in the 19th century as 
an addition to the formal tea ceremony, has its origins in the simple 
vegetarian dishes served in Zen temples. It is presented as a series of 
small, artfully composed dishes, somewhat similar to the French 
dégustation (tasting) menus now in vogue in the USA. (Kaiseki's artistic, 
minimalist aspects are sometimes cited as an inspiration for French 
nouvelle cuisine).

Now the tradition has evolved into a showcase for Japanese foods, with a 
few Americanized bells and whistles. As this country's Asian population 
grows, and as adventurous American diners seek to expand their horizons 
beyond sushi, some Japanese restaurants are refining or adding kaiseki 
menus.

That might mean simply creating a six- or seven-course menu anchored by 
miso soup, sushi, sashimi and Americanized tempura and teriyaki. But 
masters such as Sugiyama, Tatsu Nishino of Nishino's in Seattle and Kochi 
Chiba of Kamogawa in Atlanta - who have access to seasonal and exotic 
ingredients - can elevate kaiseki to the level of edible and visual art. 

"A lot of restaurants serve fixed-price menus with American-Japanese 
fusion dishes - that's easy," says Sugiyama general manager San Duong. 
"It's harder to have a traditional Japanese presentation. We have things 
you normally only find in Japan." The restaurant is barely a year old, but 
it holds a rare three-star rating from The New York Times.

Sugiyama's version evokes the original spirit of kaiseki: a harmonious 
tribute to the present season and the coming season, expressed through 
ingredients, preparation and visual presentation. Monkfish liver, 
preserved black beans and chestnut jelly represent the best of winter; 
plates decorated with flowers, buds and green leaves anticipate spring. 
Rare items such as blowfish, hairy crabs and mountain peaches make for a 
delightful immersion in Japanese culture.

"In Japan, kaiseki is for the upper class," says Sugiyama. "They like the 
presentations so much that they are reluctant to eat them."

In addition to presenting dazzling shapes, textures, colors, aromas, 
garnishes and tableware, Sugiyama appeals to Americans' outgoing nature by 
letting them cook their own food for some courses.

In one, the waiter brings to the table a red-hot stone, on which diners 
cook raw beef and seafood. In another, diners dip raw mushrooms and 
abalone into a pot of steaming broth set over coals. 

"People are crazy about participating in their meal," says Duong. 

And they're willing to pay for the pleasure. Most kaiseki dinners cost 
about $45 to $50 for seven to nine courses. Sugiyama offers eight courses 
for $60, 10 courses for $80 and 12 courses for $100. The omakase (chef's 
choice) option, which includes rarer ingredients such as blowfish, can 
cost more than $200, not including the indispensable bottle of sake.

"But what's amazing," says Duong, "is that today in Tokyo, the cost for 
seven courses would be about $300. So we're really not paying anything at 
all!" 

A menu of kaiseki  restaurants 

Atlanta
	Kamogawa, Grand Hyatt Atlanta, 3300 Peachtree Rd., N.E.; 404-841-0314. 

Dallas
	Royal Tokyo, 7525 Greenville Ave.; 214-368-3304. 

Honolulu
	Kacho, in the Waikiki Parc Hotel, 2233 Helumoa Rd.; 808-921-7272. 
	Kincha, in the Grand Wailea Resort, Maui, Hawaii; 808-874-2355. 
	Kyo-Ya, 2057 Kalakaua Ave.; 808-947-3911. 

Hyannis, Mass.
	Misaki, 379 W. Main St.; 508-771-3771. 

Las Vegas
	Shintaro, at The Bellagio; 702-693-7223. 

Los Angeles
	Restaurant Yatsuhashi, 111 S. San Pedro St.; 213-625-1722. 

New York City
	Nippon, 155 E. 52nd St.; 212-758-0226. 
	Sugiyama, 251 W. 55th St.; 212-956-0670. 
	Sushisay, 38 E. 51st St.; 212-755-1780. 

Palo Alto, Calif.
	Fuki Sushi, 4119 El Camino Royal; 650-494-9383.

Portland, Ore.
	Restaurant Murata, 200 S.W. Market St.; 503-227-0080. 

Seattle
	Nikko Restaurant, 1900 5th Ave.; 206-322-4641.
	Nishino, 3130 E. Madison St.; 206-322-5800. 

Southfield, Mich.
	Musashi Restaurant, 2000 Town Center; 248-358-1911. 

Washington, D.C.
	Makoto, 4822 MacArthur Blvd. N.W.; 202-298-6866.