Spring Loaded Camming Devices are a type of protection used by technical rock climbers to secure themselves to the rock face. SLCDs, or “cams” as they are commonly referred to, are used in building anchors in the rock or placing protection on lead, as an alternative to passive chocks. Placed in vertical cracks, cams retain their position, creating a fixed point with the rock face.
For simplicity’s sake, cams can be operated and placed with one hand. “The three or four cams in a spring-loaded camming device are connected to a trigger mechanism. Pull the trigger and the cam retracts - narrowing the profile of the device so it can fit into a particular crack. Release the trigger and the cams again rotate outward - expanding the profile until the cams grip the sides of the crack (Graydon, 202-203).” The cams securely grip the rock aided by the spring mechanism, and in the event of a fall, or load bearing application, open more with the downward force, securely holding the climber.
Cams come in different size ranges to fit all sizes and shapes of cracks. A certain model usually comes in a sequential size run to fill a range of crack sizes. Different designs and materials used in cam development can influence their use, or usefulness, such as more or less camming units, flexible or rigid stems, and cam stops to stop over back-extension.
Important in all climbing applications are a devices weight and strength. Weight is important so that a climber need not carry extra weight up a climb, expending unnecessary energy. A devices strength is also important, such as it must be able to hold a climber’s with the accompanying forces created in the system during a fall.
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