Vermont Master Gardener is an integral part of the University of Vermont Extension Home Horticulture Program
| Seasonal Tips Archive 2005 |
For archival purposes only. Links, contact names and organizations may have changed.
Answers to popular current questions from the Master Gardener Helpline (1-800-639-2230).
Seasonal Tips archives: 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004
Vermont Hardiness Zone Map (link to UVM Extension)
New England Hardiness Zone Map (link to UConn)
POSTED 11/22/05
TAR SPOT ON MAPLE leaves is quite visible right now as large black spots on yellowed maple leaves. This is a fungal disease that began last spring as smaller yellow spots. The best preventative measure is to rake up and remove infected leaves so that the fungal spores do not overwinter in the area. Treatment to the trees is not necessary. For more information, go to http://www.uvm.edu/extension/publications/gardendisease/gd30.htm
POSTED 11/3/05
DON'T MULCH SOME PLANTS Some plants don't want mulch over their crowns, never ever. They would include coral bells, delphinium, oriental poppy, irises, violas, and sedums. You can easily skip these when mulching for the winter. But,if you are concerned about autumn leaves blowing in and covering the crowns, use a turned over bushel basket or a foot high wire fence to keep out the leaves.
PROTECT FRUIT TREES FROM RODENT DAMAGE It is time to protect the lower portions of shrubs and small trees from having the bark eaten by rodents under the snow cover. Purchased plastic wrap tree guards may be used, or a ring of hardware cloth several feet high can be placed in a circle around the trunk or base. The ring should be sunk into the soil and inch or two, and be an inch or so away from the trunk. Remove both types of protection in the spring.
POSTED 8/16/05
PREPARE TREES AND SHRUBS FOR WINTER by ensuring that any mulch that may be packed closely to the trunks/stems is pulled away to expose the bark. This allows the plant to develop winter hardiness and should be done at mid-August. Exposing the bark also reduces risk of fungal infections. This and other tips can be found on the Ornamental Horticulture Leaflet 3, titled "Preparing the Garden for Winter". http://www.uvm.edu/%7Euvmext/publications/oh/oh3.htm
KEEP STRAWBERRIES well watered in mid to late summer, because that is when the cell size of the spring fruit buds is determined. Also, plan to put floating row covers over the bed through the winter for stronger plants and more fruit next season.
LEAF LETTUCE can be planted until September for a fall crop.
POSTED 8/8/05
VIBURNUMS that are being attacked by the viburnum leaf beetle can be treated with imidicloprid granules that are watered in well. Imidicloprid is an active component of grub treatment products. The imidicloprid will act as a systemic pesticide for a period of up to two years. It is still a good idea to examine the outer twigs of the shrub for egg masses, and to prune them off anytime between October and April. The egg masses appear as straight rows of bumps on the twigs. There are few straight lines in Nature, so these are easy to spot. Viburnums that have been destroyed by repeated infestations of the viburnum leaf beetle can be replaced by species that are only moderately susceptible or are resistant to the beetle.
Click here for a list of viburnum species from Cornell University (Adobe pdf document)
Click here for photos of Viburnum Leaf Beetle Egg-laying sites.
GRUBS IN THE LAWN ARE BEST TREATED NOW. There is still time until the middle of August to apply grub treatment with active ingredient imidicloprid to the lawn for getting rid of Japanese beetle and Asiatic Garden Beetle grubs. Water it in well, but don’t put it down just before a thunderstorm that will wash it all away. The eggs are being laid in the soil now by the adults, and will hatch into small grubs, which is the ideal sized for treatment. The pesticide needs to be in the soil for the grass roots to absorb it so the grubs get it into their stomachs when they chew on the roots. HURRY! HURRY! Timing is everything!
CUCUMBERS BITTER? They have been suffering from hot weather, lack of nutrients and /or water. They will be more edible if you peel them a little deep.
A COVER CROP OF ANNUAL RYE GRASS can be planted in August in an empty garden space to protect and improve the soil. Annual rye grass is a vigorous grower with an extensive root system that occupies the same spaces as garden plants; thus, it can be use to aerate and beneficially modify the soil in that area. Be sure to purchase annual rye grass seeds separately, not regular lawn grass seed mixes. Annual rye grass does not overwinter, and the dead topgrowth can be tilled in when spring comes. For a complete discussion of cover crops:
http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/ecogardening/impsoilcov.html
POSTED 7/18/05
AUSTRIAN PINE TREES are showing a fungus called Dothistroma pini on the needles. Several wet springs in a row have been conducive to fungus growth. It is too late to do much this year, but next spring would be the time to spray with a Bordeaux mixture. Click on the link for more information: http://www.plantpath.wisc.edu/pddc/pddcgraphics/Publications/Conifer.htm Scroll down to the factsheet on dothistroma and click on the pdf file.
RHODODENDRON AND AZALEA are other plants that are suffering from fungal problems. Leafspot disease from Cercospora species, Phyllosticta species and Colletotrichum species of fungi will appear throughout the year as various colored spots on the leaves. The diseases affect the aesthetic value of the plant, but are usually considered minor unless a severe infection occurs and there is extensive leaf drop.
Prevention and treatment: Remove fallen leaves, as they will retain spores for continued infection. Water shrubs from below, keeping foliage dry. Fungicide sprays can be used during periods of high humidity to curb spreading to non-affected leaves. Fungicide sprays recommended for azaleas include copper hydroxide, copper salts of fatty acids, thiophanate-methyl or cholorthalonil. For Cercospora leaf spot on rhodendron, use triadimefon, propiconazole, thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil.
POWDERY MILDEW OF ORNAMENTALS is a factsheet that describes the fungus disease that appears as a white or gray growth of fungus on the leaves, stems, or flowers on affected plants. Phlox and zinnia, snapdragon, delphinium, dahlia and chrysanthemum are the most common plants about which the Helpline is called.
Before using chemical, control should be attempted by cultural means. These would include planting resistant varieties, avoiding shade and overcrowding, watering before ten o’clock in the morning so leaves can dry off, and restricting nitrogen to reduce excessive new growth later in the summer. As with any disease, do a thorough fall cleanup, destroying diseased plant material and cleaning tools, stakes, trellises, etc. with a solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. See factsheet for more information. http://www.uvm.edu/%7Euvmext/publications/gardendisease/gd16.htm
POWDERY MILDEW OF CURCURBITS factsheet describes the symptoms as, initially, tiny white spots on the upper surface of the leaves. The spots enlarge, become powdery, and then may be found on the petioles and stems. The infected leaves become yellow and then eventually turn brown and fall off. Fruits are not attacked, but may be deformed or sunburned due to lack of leaves. Control includes plowing under or removing all infected material in the fall. Keep proper planting spacing to ensure air circulation for drying of leaves. Plant resistant varieties. Fungicides, if used, must be started when the disease first appears. A list of resistant varieties can be found on the factsheet. http://www.uvm.edu/%7Euvmext/publications/gardendisease/gd4.htm
HOLLYHOCK RUST is the most common disease affecting hollyhock. It is caused by the fungus Puccinia malvacearum. The infection first appears as yellow to brownish pustules about the size of pinheads on the underside of the lower leaves of the stalk. These pustules are followed by larger yellow to orange spots with reddish centers on the upper surface of the leaves. The infection spreads rapidly from leaf to leaf as well as the stem and green parts of the flowers. Infected leaves should be removed and destroyed. Rust-infected stalks should be removed as soon as they are done flowering. Fungicides will help keep the disease in check, but they must be started early in the season, keeping new foliage covered as it emerges. Thinning out of plants may be needed to ensure good air circulation. http://www.uvm.edu/%7Euvmext/publications/gardendisease/gd26.htm
POSTED 6/13/05
MAPLE TREES and other trees across the state have become infested with the Lecanium scale. Callers to the Helpline describe sudden, prolific, sticky dripping from the leaves of the trees. The sticky exudate is the honeydew excreted by the scales and is more scary than it is damaging. It actually provides food for other insects, such as bees, wasps and ants. Entomologists discourage large scale spraying so as to protect natural predators including lady beetles and tiny parasitic wasps. Other treatment options are described in the factsheet. http://bugs.osu.edu/~bugdoc/Shetlar/factsheet/ornamental/FSscaleLecanium.htm
FYI: If you are in the Pine Street area of Burlington, there are hackberry trees covered with scale that are awesome to see. The trees front the new Public Works building on the street going from Pine Street to General Dynamics. They will be treated for the infestation.
APHIDS (AKA "plant lice") are in abundance right now. Infested leaves will be showing puckering, curling, yellowish discoloration. Look on the underside of leaves to find the culprits sucking the sap from them. Aphids not only suck the sap out of a plant; they carry disease organisms from plant to plant. To control aphids, first try washing them off with a strong stream of plain water. Once knocked off, they do not climb back on. If that fails after a few tries, an insecticidal soap spray will destroy them. Be sure to spray the underside of the leaves and the stems. Follow all directions on the label of the product. http://www.uvm.edu/extension/publications/el/el60.htm
BOTRYTIS on peonies shows up as blackened areas on stems, leaves, and/or unopened blossoms. If on just a few areas, cut them out and put into the trash. If extensive, apply a fungicide. http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/plantdiseasefs/450-602/450-602.html
SAND CHERRY shrubs and ORNAMENTAL PLUMS are being hit by brown rot, thanks to the cool wet spring. Twig dieback and blighted blossoms resemble fireblight in stone fruits. Prune out the affected parts, put them in the trash. Consider spraying valuable specimens with a fungicide in the spring. http://pep.wsu.edu/hortsense/
PEACH LEAF CURL OR PLUM POCKETS is showing up on peach and plum. It is too late for treatment this year. http://www.ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3006.html
WILD CHERVIL is an invasive that needs mechanical control more than chemical control. According to an excellent fact sheet written by Master Gardener Victoria Bishop, it may take a few years of concentrated effort, but control is possible. Click on the "INVASIVES" button of the VERMONT MASTER GARDENER website to view and print (PDF) this information. Other websites are listed there, also.
JAPANESE KNOTWEED is an exotic invasive plant that requires season-long efforts to control. Cutting is to the ground four times a growing season has shown to be effective. That would mean once a month for June, July, August, and September. For more information on this method, click on the "INVASIVES" button on the VERMONT MASTER GARDENER website.
GROUND BEETLES are good guys. They are ugly looking, but they are beneficial insects at both the larval and adult stages. As larvae, they eat insects in the soil and grass. As adults, they seek out and eat other insects. They have large mandibles that look like they can bite humans, but are only for chewing insect prey. If a ground beetle is in the house, it is only looking for insect prey, so capture it and gently put it outdoors. For a drawing and more info, see the website: http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/entomology/factsheets/groundbe.html
POSTED 6/6/05
SPRING-BLOOMING PERENNIALS will benefit from a light shearing after blooming. Low growing flowering perennials that form mats or are used as edging can be sheared. Spent flowers, leaves, and stems can be cut by half shortly after flowering. This will encourage attractive new growth and prevent the thinning out in the center that happens otherwise. Plants that are in this group include:
Lady's mantle (Alchemilla mollis), rockcress (Arabis caucasica), snow-in-summer (Cerastium tomentosum), maiden pinks (Dianthus dltoides), evergreen candytuft (Iberis sempervirens), deadnettle (Lamium maculatum), catmint (Nepeta x faassenii), creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera), rock soapwort (Saponaria ocymoides).
Keep any sheared plants well watered to help them recover and produce new growth.
LILACS and other spring blooming shrubs will benefit from pruning out spent blooms before they set seed. Making seeds uses a lot of energy from the plant, and you want that energy to go into forming next year's blooms. Just after blooming is also a good time to fertilize flowering shrubs, because they are indeed working toward next year's display of flowers. Just be sure you don't fertilize shrubs after July 30, otherwise you are encouraging new growth that will be too tender to survive the winter.
SAND CHERRY shrubs might be covered with aphids on the undersides of the leaves. The leaves will appear to be puckering and have stickiness. Heavy infestations can be controlled with a spray of insecticidal soap, available at garden centers and hardware stores. Always follow label directions.
VIBURNUM LEAF BEETLE larvae are eating viburnum leaves, giving them a "lacy" look but not curling them. On the underside of the leaf, the larvae look like tan rice grains. Rub them off or spray with a pyrethrin mixture.
POSTED 5/23/05
FOREST TENT CATERPILLARS ARE BACK, having been a devastating pest 2004.
The most dramatic numbers have been observed in southern Vermont. They show up as large numbers of caterpillars spinning down on webs, and/or masses of caterpillars seen on tree trunks. They defoliate sugar maples and oaks, and continue to feed well into June.
Pictures of forest tent caterpillar, and more information about the life cycle, are available at the following websites. (Although we consider forest tent caterpillar a major pest of sugar maple here in Vermont, in other parts of North America, it is considered a pest of aspen, tupelo, and other regionally important species.)
The following information comes from Barbara Burns, Vermont Department of Natural Resources, in 2004:
Forest tent caterpillar can have a serious impact on tree health. The last outbreak peaked in 1982, with over 300,000 acres defoliated statewide. By 1984, sugar maple decline and mortality were noticeable on about 30,000 acres, which had been defoliated.
Look for the larvae of forest tent caterpillar. These caterpillars are most noticeable when they spin down on threads to migrate or when they loiter in groups on the boles of host trees. They may form silken mats on the stems where they congregate but do not construct a web or tent, as does the eastern tent caterpillar. In areas of defoliation, there will be chewed, tattered, or lacy leaves, a lot of sunlight is reaching the forest floor, particles of leaf on the ground, and brown caterpillar pellets collecting on the leaves of ground cover plants. You may hear the "pitter-patter" of the pellets raining down.
Healthy trees with significant damage will refoliate by mid-July. Refoliated leaves are small and light green or reddish in color, compared to darker undamaged leaves. If evidence of forest tent caterpillar is noticeable, this would be a bad time to do any thinning or other selective harvests. Reducing the basal area concentrates the same number of insects on fewer trees. It also piles another disturbance on trees, which may be low on carbohydrates.
It's especially important to keep an eye out for forest tent caterpillar in sugarbushes, where defoliation may reduce sap production and have a greater impact on tree health. Sometimes, it's worthwhile to spray sugarbushes to prevent defoliation. Although it's too late to plan for spraying this year, stands with noticeable populations this spring can be revisited in late summer or fall for egg mass sampling. Where egg mass numbers are high, the organic insecticide, Bt, can be applied from the air next spring. A ballpark cost to the landowner has been $20-$30 per acre. This requires substantial advanced planning, since permit applications for aerial spraying are issued on a site-by-site basis.
In 2003, bruce spanworm was the more widespread sugar maple defoliator. This green inchworm is also around this spring. Because its defoliation occurs earlier, trees with the same amount of damage recover faster than they do from forest tent caterpillar.
THE EASTERN TENT CATERPILLAR nests have been widely observed in the crotches of cherry and apple trees. Unlike the blue forest tent caterpillar, the eastern tent is mostly black, with stripes down its back instead of white spots. The eastern tent caterpillar hatches earlier, and is nearing the end of its feeding period. Eastern tent caterpillar information can be found at:
VIBURNUM LEAF BEETLE can still be slowed down by pruning out the egg masses laid last summer.
GARLIC MUSTARD has been found in Shelburne, spreading into woodlands and pushing out trillium.
This is an invasive plant, imported from Europe as an edible. Its leaves have a garlic flavor (good on sandwiches, according to a local mushroomer), so deer won't eat it. It makes a rosette of leaves the first year, the second year a leafy flower stalk that blooms in May. The good news is that it is spread by seeds only, so can be cut down before seeding to control or eradicate.
POSTED 5/5/05
If your lawn soil test shows excessive phosphorous, be sure to ask for a phosphorous-free lawn fertilizer if you are treating an established lawn. If it is not available, ask them to get it, or go elsewhere.
This in not the time to be treating the lawn for grubs. Yes, the grubs are there now, but they are mature, and their damage was already done last fall. Putting treatment into the soil now for later use diminishes its effectiveness.
The time to treat is late summer, when the grubs are newly hatched.
For more information, see entries on Lawns (5/04/04) and Grubs in Lawns (7/16/03)
EASTERN TENT CATERPILLAR is common and has hatched for this spring. Cherry, apple, hawthorn, peach, plum, some deciduous shade trees, pear and roses may be attacked. Watch for the beginnings of a tent in a fork of the tree branch. Put on a glove and remove the web and small caterpillars by hand and crush them. Some people take a stick and tear open the web as often as necessary so the birds can get to the caterpillars. The caterpillars actually leave the web for feeding, and go back to it for resting. If the web is too high in the tree to reach, let Nature take care of the problem by birds, parasitic wasps, and natural fungi. http://www.uvm.edu/extension/publications/el/el142.htm Also http://www.forestpests.org/vermont/eastern_tent_caterpillar.html
LICHENS have been the subjects of several calls, especially as seen on old apple trees. Lichens are a combination of algae and certain fungi living together in a symbiotic relationship. They can be seen pressed closely on the surface of trees, either live or dead trees. They have only minor impact on the tree, because they gain their nourishment from the air, not from the plant on which they are growing, because they are epiphytes. That makes them, actually, indicators of relatively clean air. They also indicate a sparse, thin canopy, which allows the epiphytes enough light to photosynthesize. So to deter lichens on your live trees, keep them in good condition with a dense canopy.
POSTED 4/8/05
EASTER LILIES can be planted out and will bloom again. For now, cut back the spent blooms and their stems. Treat the remainder of the plant as a houseplant, giving it light and quarter strength feeding along with watering. Let the soil dry out between waterings to prevent fungus gnats and to allow oxygen to get to the roots. After all chances of frost are past and the ground outdoors has warmed up, plant the lily with the bulb eight inches deep, keeping the stem and leaves to feed the bulb for more blooms. You may get another stem and bloom this late summer (or not), but it will bloom next year in mid-summer if you leave the leaves on this year until they turn brown and dry before cutting. Mark well so you know where the bulb is planted.
POSTED 3/15/05
YOU CAN HELP PREVENT THE SPREAD OF VIBURNUM LEAF BEETLE by going out now, before the shrubs leaf out, and pruning away the eggs that have been deposited into the twigs last summer. The egg-laying sites are easily visible, so prune them out and put them into the trash. Do not put them into the compost, the pile probably doesn’t get hot enough.
What does an egg-laying site look like? Cornell University has come to the rescue with a website, www.hort.cornell.edu/vlb, that contains pictures to assist with identification. This website also lists the species that are most susceptible to attack, and those least susceptible. So when you go to the nursery to order or to buy, you are an informed consumer. Cornell also recommends that you closely inspect for eggs any viburnum plant that you purchase.
Using preventative pruning and choosing resistant varieties will save you money and also keep you from exposure to chemicals in your yard. Not to mention, keep your shrub from being shredded.
If you are planning a HUMMINGBIRD or a BUTTERFLY garden, be aware that hybrids often have less nectar than species, or the nectar is harder to reach.
STARBUCKS COFFEE shops began in 2004 to give away used coffee grounds to be used for mulch. They will continue the practice again this growing season. They make an attractive mulch 1 to 2 inches deep, but will compact if deeper, unless composted or mixed with other looser materials, Keep the volume of grounds to one quarter (25%) of any mix. The caffeine has been brewed away, but some of the acid remains, so acid soil loving plants will really benefit. And any kid knows that where you put the coffee grounds out is the spot where you dig for worms for fishing bait.
POSTED 2/28/05
It’s time to think about seeds again, and which ones to choose and how to plant them. When choosing, keep in mind that new hybrids are available that have extra nutrition bred right into them. Also keep in mind the growing conditions you have in your garden specifically, and choose accordingly. Remember other folks when planning, and allow for extra to give to local food shelves (Plant a Row for the Hungry).
ORDERING RESISTANT VARIETY SEEDS FOR LESS TROUBLE LATER ON:
If you had difficulties last year with diseases, look for seed varieties that have been bred for resistance to diseases. Tomatoes, especially, have many varieties that are disease resistant and palatable.
THE DISEASE CODES: Those letters and numbers following the name of the variety help you pick out seeds to grow resistant varieties if you have been having disease problems in your garden.
We have several leaflets available (below) which tell you how to start and grow seedlings. They are not available from our website, but can be requested at no charge by calling the Master Gardener Helpline at 1-800-639-2230 or (802) 656-5421 any time and leaving a message with your name and address along with your request.
TEST GERMINATION RATE of old seeds by placing some in a moist paper towel placed into a plastic bag. Put the bag in a warm place. Check in a few days for germination. A seed sprouter also works well. Just be sure to use only untreated seeds in your sprouter if it is also used for food sprouts.
If you need information about growing fruits, go to the Master Gardener Home Page, click on LINKS, click on UVM EXTENSION PUBLICATIONS, Home Gardening, Fruit Culture Leaflets for a collection of 'Fruit Culture Leaflets' to help you along. These include 'Apple Varieties for Vermont', 'Pollinators and Pollinizers for Tree Fruits', 'Dwarf Fruit Trees', and others.
PLANNING AHEAD FOR DEER PROBLEMS see OH 64 DEER RESISTANT PERENNIALS
PLANNING AHEAD FOR DROUGHT TOLERANCE find plants that have silver or gray leaves (they reflect sun and heat away), thick stems (cacti), aromatic or waxy leaves (lavender), hairy leaves (alchemilla, dusty miller), puffy leaves (sedum), long taproot (eryngium, dill), thick fleshy roots to store water (daylillies, poppies).
There are several leaflets of information available for helping to deal with problems that can show up on houseplants at this time of year.
POSTED 2/8/05
Salt Damage
by Janna Beckerman, Extension Plant Pathologist, University of Minnesota
What is salt?
Salt is composed of sodium (Na) and chloride (Cl), chemically depicted as NaCl. Salt occurs in a variety forms, including the mineral halite, which is mined and used in rock salt. Sodium chloride is sold in several different particle sizes depending on its intended use. Rock salt consists of discrete crystals, where fine granules make up the typical table salt and even finer popcorn salt. Kosher salt exists as coarser flakes, and compressed pellets are used in water softeners. Although often consisting of both salt and sand, the salt used on roads consists of mostly (98.5 percent) sodium chloride with traces of other mineral salts.
How does Salt Damage Plants?
Salt becomes toxic to plants when it dissolves in water, and the sodium and chloride ions separate. Sodium ions in the salt replace the needed nutrients phosphorus and potassium in the soil, making them unavailable to the plant. Have you ever tried to get table salt out of a wet shaker? Then you know salt absorbs water. Rock salt does the exact thing in the soil, absorbing the water that would normally be available to roots, causing root dehydration, changing root physiology, and causing additional plant stress. Meanwhile, chloride ions are absorbed by the roots, transported to the leaves, and accumulate there interfering with photosynthesis by impacting chlorophyll production.
Salt doesn't only affect the roots: When sprayed onto plants by passing vehicles, salt damages plant cells, including buds and small twigs, thereby reducing cold hardiness and leaving tissue more susceptible to freezing damage.
How to Diagnose Salt Damage
In examining plants to determine if salt is playing role in the observed damage, be sure to note which side of the plant has more severe symptoms. Damage should be more severe on side facing the road, with the plants closest to the road most severely affected. Usually, evergreen damage appears in late winter, with needle browning beginning at the tip. Keep in mind that snow covered branches will be less affected than those exposed to salt spray, and that as you move above the spray zone symptoms should abate. It is more difficult to diagnose spray damage on deciduous plants. Usually, leaf buds facing the road are killed or are very slow to break. Flower buds facing the road often fail, but the unaffected side of the tree or shrub flowers normally. Repeated damage by salt may result in witches brooms, or a tufted appearance.
How to Prevent Salt Damage
The easiest way to prevent salt damage is to avoid de-icing salts and use coarse sand to provide traction and make sidewalks and driveways less slick. If you must use salt, use it judiciously, and erect barriers with plastic fencing, burlap or snow fencing to protect sensitive plants and minimize contact with salt. When possible, use de-icing agents with calcium chloride, or calcium magnesium acetate (CMA), a salt-free melting agent made from limestone and acetic acid.
Along with the above article, here are some suggestions for plant choices for problem areas with salt:
Shrubs that are tolerant of salt include:
Deciduous trees that tolerate salt include:
Evergreens that tolerate salt include:
Perennials that tolerate salt include:
POSTED 1/11/05
Three articles that are worth reading were posted in the Articles page in Garden Talk.
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