| Seasonal Tips Archive 2002 |
For archival purposes only. Links, contact names and organizations may have changed.
Answers to popular current questions from the Master Gardener Helpline (1-800-639-2230).
A link is made to those UVM Extension leaflets (EL,GD,etc.) available on the web. All leaflets are available through mail order or in person from UVM Extension offices (see theirPublications Catalog).
Vermont Hardiness Zone Map (link to UVM Extension)
New England Hardiness Zone Map (link to UConn)
POSTED 3/18/02
- LADYBUGS AND CLUSTER FLIES
Question: We recently moved to an old, old house in Waitsfield. I am finding in the attic (which has skylights and windows on the sides) lots of ladybugs. They are also coming around to the windows on the second floor now, especially on the windows facing the south side of the house. I am also finding flies around too! What's the summer to bring? Help! Are the lady bugs and flies bad to have around? What can I do to get rid of them? If you have any suggestions, please let me know or whom to contact! Thanks for your help!
Answer:Your problems with the lady bugs and flies are very common ones. The flies are cluster flies. There is a UVM Extension publication on cluster flies available at http://www.uvm.edu/extension/publications/el/el11.htm and from Rhode Island at http://www.uri.edu/ce/factsheets/sheets/clusterfly.html. There are a number of these publications but they have few suggestions for dealing with them once they appear. From my own experience, I've found that if they are gathering at windows, they will immediately fly outdoors if you open the windowsp; Also I've found it fairly effective to vacuum them up. And here is a UVM Extension publication on ladybugs http://www.uvm.edu/extension/publications/el/el53.htm. It is easier and more informative for you to use these links than for me to try to synthesize and type an answer to you. I hope these will help. You are very welcome to inquire again of the master gardener helpline, but I wanted you to be aware of a good resource for finding UVM Extension Service publications. There is a search page for these at http://ctr.uvm.edu/ext/search.htm. Marion -- volunteer master gardener
POSTED 3/27/02
- Vermont Vegetable and Berry Newsletter for April: Heirloom tomato trial, GMO legume inoculants, transplanting pumpkins, corn borer biocontrol, Japanese millet to suppress Rhizoc on potato http://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/newsletter/04012002.html
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- Q: I'd like to know what is recommended for spraying apple trees, especially as an early dormant spray? I have a greening apple tree and I'd like to increase the production of fruit, but am not sure what sprays to use.
A: There is a great deal of information available online on this subject, so rather than typing it all, I will just mention these web sites which have good information for our area.
New England Apple Pest Management Guide http://orchard.uvm.edu/aim/9697neapmg/arthropod.html
UVM Extension publication "Spray Strategies" for general spraying tips.
http://orchard.uvm.edu/aim/9697neapmg/spraystrat.html
Univ of RI general publication on home orchard spraying, which includes specific information about apples http://www.uri.edu/ce/factsheets/sheets/fruitsprayguide.html#apple
And a good article about using horticultural oils may be found at http://www.rce.rutgers.edu/pubs/pdfs/fs866.pdf
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- Q: I have a question about saving bulbs. My husband has been buying me a new plant each week. (Tulips, daffodils, etc. in pots). I would like to save the bulbs for planting in the fall. What is the best procedure for drying & storing them, or should I plant them this spring when the ground thaws.
A: It is possible to save these bulbs although results are not always assured. You should fertilize the plants with a high phosphorous houseplant fertilizer, keep them moist, and keep them in a cool spot so that their leaves will stay green as long as possible. Then plant them outdoors as soon as weather permits, so they can continue the ripening of the foliage. Since the leaves are needed to form the bulb for the following year's bloom, it is important not to remove them until they have died off naturally. If the leaves die off naturally while in the pot and you seem to have what appear to be normal-looking bulbs, you can just plant the bulbs outside in spring at the normal depth for planting (about 6" for large bulbs). Otherwise, plant them out, with the leaves, at the same depth as they were in the pot, and remove the leaves only after they have naturally died off. In either case you can then hope they will come up next year. Some of the paperwhite narcissus are not hardy in our zone, so they will not survive, but some will.
- Q: We are being overrun with moles or voles. I've tried spray on repellents and poison in the holes and they seem to enjoy both. Any tips on how to solve this problem?
A: It might be best to figure out what you have -- moles or voles. I suspect moles as their activities with mounds and surface tunnels are more obvious than the voles. Voles poison more easily as they more readily eat poison grains. Moles are insectivores and eat grubs and such. For this reason, one way to reduce the mole population is to decrease the numbers of white grubs in your lawn, if that is in fact a problem.
There is a UVM Extension Service publication available online on the subject of white grubs at http://www.uvm.edu/extension/publications/el/el1.htm which gives information on controlling moles from this angle.
You could also try trapping. There is a good description of the various kinds of mechanical traps, plus information on mole life cycle and other methods of controlling them at http://muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/wildlife/g09440.htm This is an excellent information source. The traps are available locally at garden and farm supply stores. They may also be caught in spring-type mousetraps baited with peanut butter. I've personally used this technique with variable success. You have to find a main exit hole, best to set 2 traps right at the entrance to the hole, then you must cover the traps with something that will exclude light such as a bucket or flowerpot. This will also keep pets and children away from the traps.
When you say you've used spray repellent, I'm assuming you used a castor oil product such as Mole-Med, which will repel, but not kill the moles. It needs to be watered in and the repellent effect will last up to 2 months, depending on rainfall. They will go elsewhere, so there is an initial additional flurry of movement and tunneling. Perhaps the ground is not yet sufficiently thawed for the product to have been absorbed enough to deter them, or perhaps you are observing their attempts to get away. I noticed that there is a new granular product to sprinkle the ground (which I think might be easier to use), available at Gardens Alive (a mail order supplier) and perhaps Gardener's Supply and/or other places as well.
I've heard of people running water into their holes with a hose, then standing by with a shovel or other weapon to bop them as they come out the exit holes. Just another thought?
POSTED 4/12/02
- Now is the time for dormant oil spray, before the trees leaf out and temperatures are above 40 degrees F.
- Also, check those Home Orchard Spray labels for timing your spraying before budbreak, to prevent the fungus and insect problems you see later on.
- Get Ready: Pre-emergent treatment for crabgrass should be applied two weeks before the last expected frost, and should be on by the time the forsythia blossoms fall. There is an organic pre-emergent for crabgrass now available, made from corn gluten.
- Indian meal moths in the house but you have cleaned up your kitchen and put flour and cereals in cans and/or jars? Check your birdseed! Don't store it inside the house.
- FYI: Proper diagnosis is important!
Found in the Helpline logs a classic example of why we don't spray or dust until the problem is properly diagnosed: A person wrote in about several problems, including gladiola leaves turning whitish, dahlia leaves turning yellow with brownish spots and also losing perennial plants. Home gardener sprayed a fungicide and Sevin but the problems seemed to continue. The Helpline requested plant samples. These samples showed that two-spotted spider mites were affecting all the plants (mites loved our hot dry summer last year) and a miticide was recommended. The fungicide previously applied was totally inappropriate, and Sevin does not even list spider mites on the label.
POSTED 5/10/02
- SPRING WEATHER AND APPLE CROP
The early warm days in April, followed by cold temperatures, has caused the apple trees to bloom way before their normal May 15th bloomtime, resulting in an estimated 30%-50% loss of crop. There has been damage to the king blossoms, the first to open, and even the closed buds suffered damage to the anthers and pistils. Consequently, fertilization will not take place and fruit will not form. Damage is found top to bottom in most trees. Continued cold weather will reduce bee activity, resulting in even more loss due to inadequate pollination during the period when blossoms are open.
To examine your tree's blossoms, cut open the flower longitudinally and note whether there is any browning of the sex parts, which would indicate damage and loss of fruiting capability.
Fruit set occurs in June, but there will be many spurs not fruiting in 2002. These will then fruit in 2003, causing an overabundance of fruit that requires extra expenditure of time and labor to thin so as to maintain quality.
- WORMS ON BURNING BUSH AND HYDRANGEA
Now is the time to check the succulent growing tips of these shrubs, looking for wrinkled, folded and/or stuck together leaves with tiny eggs or webbing on the underside. These tips are very tender and can be easily pinched out by hand now to prevent larval damage and webbing that leads to indiscriminate spraying of pesticides later. Pinching out the tips does not harm the plant, and even makes it bushier.
- GYPSY MOTH
The bellweather gypsy moth egg mass in South Burlington has hatched hundreds of tiny black larvae. They are at the base of the tree and ready to climb, so wrap your tree trunks with Tanglefoot now if you have this pest in your trees.
POSTED 6/7/02
- ANTHRACNOSE
This rainy weather has been perfect for wetting periods required by fungi that cause leaf spots and blights like anthracnose in maple, ash, oak and sycamore. The only thing that may keep infections light are the cooler temperatures that may slow the development of the disease and the emergence of leaves. Here are a couple of links with more information on the disease. No fungicides are usually warranted. http://www.uri.edu/ce/factsheets/sheets/anthractrees.html, http://www.uvm.edu/extension/publications/gardendisease/gd28.HTM
- SNOWBALL VIBURNUM APHID
There have been several inquiries about curling, distorted leaves in viburnam. These are a result of earlier feeding injury from the snowball aphid. It is too late now to do anything about it since the insects have left. More information is available from the EL titled Snowball viburnam aphid (http://www.uvm.edu/extension/publications/el/el176.htm) and homeowners should be ready next year when the buds break with something like Safer's soap for organic or Malathion or sevin for non-organic prevention. Fungicides are preventatives, and the label directions must be followed exactly to be effective.
- BACTERIAL BLIGHT ON LILAC
Several samples of lilac twigs have been seen with new growth stunted and brown, bark black and moldy, some parts covered with a white fuzzy mold. Blossoms are brown and unopened, leaves are blackened and wilted. The diseased portions should be pruned out well below the affected areas, and the tools must be dipped into alcohol between each cut. Remove all trimmings and destroy them, do not compost. If the infestation is serious or widespread, be ready next Spring to start a fungicide program with a copper sulfate based product at bud break, repeating every 7-10 days during wet weather.
POSTED 6/10/02
- Fungus Problems Common Right Now:
- Oak leaf blister is a fungus that deforms and puckers leaves. Treatment not usually necessary. Rake up and get rid of leaves in the fall.
- Rust on hollyhock, raspberry, crabapples, hawthornes is a fungus that can be minimized by applying fungicides when the leaves are just emerging. For this year, make sure to clean up infected leaves this fall.
- Botrytis on peony will show up as blackened leaves and stems. For this year, clip out and destroy infected areas. Clean tools with alcohol. Next spring, apply fungicide when leaves are emerging from the ground.
- Apple scab affects leaves and fruit. For this year, clean up all infected tissue, be ready next spring with orchard spray when the leaves emerge.
- Fire blight
This bacterial disease can affect crabapples, apples, mountain ash, rose, pear and other ornamental species. Most noticeable will be the appearance of dead terminal shoots of new growth, which turn brown or black, the leaves droop downward, and the branch appears to have been scorched by fire. The blight progresses downward on the branch and forms a sunken dark brown to purplish canker from which frequently amber colored gum oozes. Fire blight requires pruning out, starting well below the diseased area. Clean tools with alcohol. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizers and plant resistant species. If you must, spray a bacterial spray next spring just before leaf buds start to open.
- Cabbage Root Maggot
The fly lays its eggs at the base of cabbage family garden crops. When the eggs hatch, the maggots burrow into the roots. Usually the first sign of damage occurs mid-June when plants suddenly wilt during the heat of the day. Plants appear sickly and stunted, take on a bluish cast, and eventually die. To control: 1. pull soil away from the plant , place a heaping tablespoon of wood ashes around the stem and mix some wood ashes into the soil around the plant; 2. a 6-8 inch flat circular collar of tar paper, foil, shingle, plastic, etc., can prevent the flies from laying their eggs; 3. if seen, the small white eggs can be removed. Cultural methods include rotating crops and removal of crop residues in the fall as prevention of infestation.
POSTED 6/20/02
I've received several reports from northern Vermont of moderate to heavy defoliation of sugar maple by a small green looper called the Bruce Spanworm. Light numbers of the insect seem to be widespread and common. Caterpillars may also be found on beech leaves. A pest alert on the insect can be accessed at http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/pest_al/bruce_spanworm/pa.htm. Please let us know of any moderate to heavy infestations.
Ronald S. Kelley
Forest Insect & Disease Specialist
Dept. of Forests, Parks and Recreation
29 Sunset Dr. Suite 1
Morrisville, VT 05661-8331
TEL 802-888-5733 FAX 802-888-2432
Email: ron.kelley@anr.state.vt.us
POSTED 7/18/02
Hydrogels, those sponge-like water retaining granules that are added to soil, may not be as safe as previously thought. One researcher offers some concerns about their use.
http://www.cfr.washington.edu/research.mulch/myths/hydrogels.pdf
POSTED 8/02/02
Time Sensitive Advice: Grub Control Must Be Done Now
by Marge Westphal, Vermont Master Gardener
If you are treating for lawn grubs and if you are using imidicloprid (MERIT or BAYER SEASON-LONG GRUB CONTROL), it should be applied NOW, the first week of August. The window closes after that, because it must be applied before the grubs hatch.
"GRUB-EX" product used to include imidicloprid, but is now registered with halofenozide, which means it is effective on Japanese beetle only. If you have diazinon left and want to use it up, it should be applied after eggs hatch, which is through August in the Northeast. This chemical is more effective if applied now, while larvae are small, rather than in the spring.
Milky spore disease is not effective north of Albany, New York.
For more details, refer to the "Grubs in the Lawn" section further down in the Seasonal Tips posted 5/10/02.
POSTED 8/13/02
Hornets and Wasps
The Helpline is receiving requests for information regarding bee and wasp problems, which begin to become a problem now as the nests grow larger and the insects become more aggressive. The Entomology Leaflet EL31 is an excellent resource for information. Recent studies have shown that a 10% vinegar solution makes an effective weed killer, especially on young weeds. You can make your own 10% solution by buying household vinegar (a 5% solution) and boiling it down by half. Spray or wipe on with a sponge.
Wildflower Gardening
Anyone interested in starting a wildflower garden, meadow, patch, etc., should be getting the soil ready this fall. An informative and comprehensive article covering all the aspects of planting and maintaining a wildflower garden, "Planting a Wildflower Garden" written by Master Gardener Judy Lochbruner, can be found in the articles section of this website.
POSTED 8/20/02
Is it too late to use Merit to control grubs this year? Dr. Pat Vittum, Turf Entomologist with the UMass Extension Turf Program, has provided some tips on how to make the most of a Merit application. http://www.umassturf.org/updates/2002/15aug02.htm
POSTED 9/12/02
The Helpline has been receiving calls about Blossom End Rot on tomatoes. Here is the GD leaflet with information on it: http://www.uvm.edu/extension/publications/gardendisease/gd1.htm
POSTED 9/19/02
LAWNS: Fall fertilization of lawns should have been accomplished by early September, but there is still time, right up to October, to apply limestone. To be most efficient, a soil test should be done. Soil test kits may be ordered from the Helpline at 1-800-639-2230 or 656-5421. The directions are all included, and payment is sent with the soil sample. The alternative is to follow the rule of thumb, which is to apply a nominal amount of lime if you haven't put any on in the last 3 years.
GREEN MANURE: Be careful when buying rye for green manure. There are 4 types of rye, and the one most often desired is ANNUAL RYEGRASS. This a small grass that can be planted up to 3 weeks before first frost, will be killed by the winter, and will leave a dead mat which can be turned into the soil in the spring and can be planted into immediately. PERENNIAL RYEGRASS will die back in the winter and then regrow in the spring, just like the lawn, which is where it is best used. WINTER RYE is a grain crop that grows 4-5 feet tall, dies back in the winter and then regrows in the spring. It can be tilled under when it is 10-12 inches high in the spring, but takes several weeks to decompose enough for planting any garden crops. It is also difficult to dig under by hand. SPRING RYE is a grain crop that is not common in the North.
POSTED 10/17/02
BOXELDER BUG has been plaguing many homeowners by coming inside homes to spend the winter. They are smelly, especially when squashed, and a nuisance, but do not chew on anything nor do they present a poisonous problem. They can be vacuumed or swept up and disposed of. Spraying with a pesticide is only a last resort, and no one wants pesticides in the house. Prevention of this invasion of bugs (also applies to the ladybeetles) begins with making sure the house is well caulked around windows and doors and any other openings for pipes, vents, etc. Nearby boxelder trees may have to be eliminated. Maple trees are also a favorite host of these bugs. http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/EntWeb/galleries/house-beetle-boxelder.html
PUTTING THE GARDEN TO BED for the winter is outlined on our factsheet number OH 03, 'Preparing the Garden for Winter'. Most important is clean-up of diseased plant material, disposing of it off-site.Do not put it into the compost pile unless you can maintain a very hot pile. An often forgotten but important cultural practice to prevent disease problems in the garden is the cleaning of tomato stakes and/or cages, trellises, tools, plastic supplies (row covers, hoops, jugs, etc.) with a solution of one part bleach to 9 parts water at fall clean-up to kill bacteria and fungi and not carry them over to the next season. APPLE SCAB fungus remains on fallen leaves and fruit and these should be cleaned out and disposed of to lessen the return of spores next spring.
BIRDSEED information excerpted from "The Avant Gardener", Vol. 34, No. 10 (Horticultural Data Processors, Box 489, New York, NY 10028) as follows: "Beware Birdseed: One of the most common components of bird feed is black oil sunflower seed. It is valued for its high-quality protein and as an oil source for avian diets. Plant pathologists, however, have detected the overwintering form (sclerotia)of a plant-pathogenic fungus in some commercial sunflower seed. 'Sclerotinia sclerotiorum' can infect some 400 species of annuals, perennials, vegetables and woody plants. It causes a disease called cottony rot, which has been documented as being on the increase for the past several years. When birds discard infected seeds to the ground around the feeder, the sclerotia can lay dormant for months or even years, then produce spores that will infect plants. When plant pathologists at the Ohio Agricultural Research and Development Center (Wooster, OH 44691) tested ten bags of commercial sunflower seed, five were found to contain sclerotia of the fungus. Since there are no resistant sunflower varieties and no fungicides to control the disease, commercial growers are being urged to rotate their crops and monitor them for infection, and to practice double-screen cleaning plus gravity screening to reduce infected seeds to the lowest possible levels." http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/rowcrops/pp840w.htm
POSTED 11/14/02
WESTERN CONIFER SEED BUG has been turning up indoors lately to spend the winter. They are smelly when squashed and can be a nuisance, but do not chew on anything nor do they present a poisonous problem. They can be vacuumed or swept up and disposed of. Spraying with a pesticide is only a last resort, and no one wants pesticides in the house. Prevention of this invasion of bugs (also applies to the ladybeetles and boxelder bugs) begins with making sure the house is well caulked around windows and doors and any other openings for pipes, vents, etc. http://www.uri.edu/ce/factsheets/sheets/westconseedbug.html
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