Barley at Its Best Lost in Soup for Decades, This Basic Grain Gets a Makeover (Renee Comet - For The Washington Post) By Candy Sagon Washington Post Staff Writer Wednesday, January 30, 2002; Page F01 Barley is like the girl next door. You've known her forever, never really thinking about her in "that way," until some other guy comes along and sees her for the gem she really is. And barley can be sexy. Truly sensitive, inventive chefs know this. They tell her, "Honey, lose those stodgy soups. Peel off those frumpy stews. Time for dressing up and steppin' out." Which is why barley's been showing up on menus as a rich, creamy risotto accessorized with wild mushrooms or seductive truffles. In cookbooks, she's been mingling in cool, tangy salads with fresh herbs, snappy vinaigrettes and juicy tomatoes. Really cutting-edge chefs have even discovered Ethiopian black barley. The grains are a glossy black, like wild rice, and we all know how good any girl looks in black. Not that there's anything wrong with being plain, beige and dependable. After all, barley has nourished us with those sturdy soups and stews, and been the backbone of our favorite beers, for time immemorial. Go back 10,000 years and what were ancient peoples eating? Barley mush, barley bread, barley cakes. That's because barley was the first domesticated grain. Resilient and undemanding, it could grow anywhere, from the Arctic to the equator. Not surprisingly, barley quickly became the poor person's grain -- meaning cheap, nutritious and filling -- and a staple of peasant kitchens from Eastern Europe to the Mediterranean and Middle East. The pearly kernels could withstand hours of simmering with bones and vegetables to make a bracing beef barley soup (or its sister, barley mushroom soup), while still delivering a healthy dose of protein, folic acid and minerals like calcium and iron. Even barley tea was valued, prescribed to help digestive upsets or to nourish the weak. Unfortunately, once wheat production improved and puffy loaves of bread made from wheat flour became more available, homely barley got shouldered aside. In fact, U.S. barley production this year -- an estimated 250 million bushels -- is expected to be the lowest since 1953, according to U.S. agriculture statistics. Further, of the barley we produce, about 55 percent goes for animal feed, 40 percent goes for malt production for alcoholic beverages, 3 percent goes for seed and a piddling 2 percent goes for human food. It's enough to give a grain an inferiority complex. It's time to get barley out of her rut. Let her shine a little. Gray Kunz certainly thinks so. The New York chef and author, with Peter Kaminksy, of "The Elements of Taste" (Little, Brown, 2001), complains that barley "is always served with stick-to-your-ribs stuff and only in the dead of winter." What a waste. Barley, says Kunz, is a "delicately textural grain" and he serves it in warm weather in a refreshing salad that is reminiscent of tabbouleh, except that it uses barley grains tossed in a vinaigrette with fresh herbs and julienned tomatoes. (Obviously, this works best with sweet summer tomatoes, but to those of us already sick of winter, making this salad in January with store-bought fresh herbs and some decent organic tomatoes was still like a whiff of spring on the plate.) Todd Gray, chef of downtown Washington's Equinox, is also a barley believer. That may be because his wife, Ellen, and many of his staff are vegetarians and "they're always asking for barley for [the staff] meal," he says. That gets him thinking of new ways to use it on his menu. "Funny you should ask, because I'm just getting ready to add truffled barley risotto cakes with squab breast," he says. Gray's barley cakes are cooked risotto discs that he lightly flours and then sautes to caramelize the exterior. When you bite into them, the outside tastes nutty with a little crunch, while the inside is creamy and starchy with just enough of barley's characteristic chewiness. "It's nice to do barley in a way that people don't expect," Gray says. Gray cooked traditional Italian risotto for many years at Galileo before opening Equinox three years ago. Barley risotto is basically made the same way, he says. Saute the barley to toast it and bring out its nuttiness, deglaze with wine, poach slowly with hot stock and then, just before serving, stir in a little butter, Parmesan and vegetables for flavoring. Gray likes using shiitake mushrooms in the fall, and puree of sweet peas in the spring. Pearl barley (the most common kind, with the tough outer husk polished away to reveal the pearl-colored nubbin) is perfect for risotto. It reacts the same as Italian arborio rice, slowly releasing its starch to turn the risotto creamy, but retaining enough body and chewiness so that it doesn't become mushy. In Italy's hilly Friuli-Venezia Giulia region in the northeast, where barley is grown, cooks typically turn it into risotto. Lately, American chefs from coast to coast have been doing the same. Josie LeBalch at the year-old Josie Restaurant in Santa Monica, Calif., has even taken things a step further with black barley risotto. "Shhh -- don't tell or they'll all start doing it," she jokes when asked about the dish. LeBalch discovered black barley from the Minnesota firm Indian Harvest (www.indianharvest.com) where she also gets the heirloom beans and other grains she serves with wild game or as vegetarian fare. Black barley, grown in Ethiopia, has a nuttier flavor and is chewier than regular barley -- similar to the difference between wild rice and regular rice. It also takes longer to cook, she says. "But I've found when I cook it in stock with the lid on, it becomes much creamier, more like regular barley." Barley -- both black and the pearl variety -- is also popular at Salts, a restaurant in Cambridge, Mass., owned by chef Steve Rosen. Rosen is a big barley booster, thanks to his Eastern European heritage. Ask him if barley has been woefully ignored in this country and he becomes adamant: "Every grain except white rice is ignored in this country," he says. Rosen's signature dish at Salts is tea-smoked lamb, which he currently serves with a pumpkin moussaka atop slow-cooked black barley. Come spring, he will lighten the menu with pearl barley, tossing it in a lemony vinaigrette with fresh tomatoes to accompany a spinach tart. Don't look for black barley in Washington, though; few chefs are familiar with it. Besides, it's hard enough to find regular barley here. One place that's been serving it awhile is Melrose in the Park Hyatt Hotel. Executive chef Brian McBride uses carrot juice instead of stock in his barley risotto to enhance the color and give it more sweetness. He serves it with barbecued salmon or something hearty like beef short ribs. It's a hugely popular side dish at the kosher banquets that his restaurant caters. So popular, in fact, that McBride admits he has yanked it off the restaurant's regular menu for long stretches simply because he gets tired of making it. Barley is always on the menu at Maxim, the new Russian restaurant that opened five months ago near the White House. Russia is one of the world's top producers of barley, so it's no surprise that chef Vladimir Gurevich, a native of St. Petersburg, can name a half-dozen riffs he does on basic barley risotto. His current favorites are barley with pumpkin and cranberries (served with duck), and barley with creamy chestnuts, roasted garlic and shallots (served with lamb chops). The risottos are richly flavored and hearty and everyone, he says, loves them. Well, not everyone. No one is going to convince New Heights chef Scott Ostrander that barley risotto is worth eating. A confirmed barley basher, Ostrander is blunt about his feelings: "I don't understand why everyone's jumping on this. It's too gummy. It just tastes like a bad bowl of oatmeal. I'm boycotting it on my menu." Ostrander formerly worked in Hawaii and he admits barley reminds him of poi, a traditional Hawaiian dish made from taro root that typically generates a love-hate reaction. Would he ever eat barley? "Maybe if [famed French chef] Alain Ducasse made it," he allows. On the other hand, Nora Pouillon, chef-owner of Restaurant Nora, gave up on barley a few years ago, but now thinks she might give it another chance. It's not that Pouillon dislikes grains -- quite the opposite. She is so finicky about the quality of organic grains she uses that, for example, she pays a farmer to grow a special strain of brown risotto rice just for her. Then she combines a little barley with the rice to make the wild mushroom risotto currently on her menu. As for risotto made entirely from barley, "I used to make it years ago, especially in winter, but people didn't like it as much as rice. They weren't familiar with the flavor," she says. "But you know," she continues, "10 years ago I couldn't give away a beet and now I have it as an appetizer and I sell 15 a night. Maybe that's what's happened with barley. I'm thinking I should give it another shot." Barley, Herbs and Heirloom Tomato Salad With Tomato Coulis (4 first-course servings) This is a winter adaptation of a summery salad from "The Elements of Taste" by Gray Kunz and Peter Kaminsky (Little, Brown, 2001). During the summer, the tomato coulis should be made with yellow tomatoes and zebra or other heirloom tomatoes. During cold weather, we substituted the most flavorful organic tomatoes and fresh herbs we could find at the supermarket. It was still delicious. For the salad: 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 baguette, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1/2 cup cooked barley, preferably cooked in chicken or vegetable stock (about 1/4 cup uncooked) 3 tablespoons sherry vinegar (may substitute 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar combined with 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar) Pinch sugar Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste 1/2 cup finely chopped parsley 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh lemon thyme or thyme leaves 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh oregano leaves 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh summer savory (or use 1/2 teaspoon dried) 2 zebra or other heirloom tomatoes, cored, seeded, then julienned 2 tablespoon celery leaves (optional garnish) For the coulis: 6 medium tomatoes, preferably yellow Pinch sugar Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste For the salad: In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the bread cubes and cook, stirring only occasionally, until golden and crisp. Remove from the heat; set aside. In a large bowl, combine the cooked barley, remaining 2 tablespoons oil, 2 tablespoons of the vinegar, sugar and salt and pepper to taste. Toss to combine. Add the herbs and tomatoes and drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon vinegar. Set aside at room temperature. For the coulis: In a food processor or blender, puree the 6 yellow tomatoes. Strain the tomatoes through a fine sieve into a stainless-steel bowl, discarding any solids. Season with sugar, salt and pepper to taste. Place the bowl in a large bowl of ice (you have to chill the tomatoes quickly so they do not render all of their water.) Reseason to taste. To serve, spoon the chilled coulis onto 4 chilled plates. Top with the barley salad, croutons and, if desired, celery leaves. Serve immediately. Per serving: 179 calories, 4 gm protein, 27 gm carbohydrates, 7 gm fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 gm saturated fat, 240 mg sodium, 4 gm dietary fiber ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Barley and Wild Mushroom Risotto (4 servings) Wild mushrooms complement barley's nutty flavor, but other vegetables can be used as well. (For more delicate vegetables, some chefs cook the barley until nearly done, then add the vegetables, or vegetable purees, near the end of the cooking to keep them brighter in color.) For a rich finish, stir in a pat of butter and some freshly grated Parmesan just prior to serving. Adapted from "How to Cook Everything" by Mark Bittman (Macmillan, 1998). 4 to 6 cups chicken, beef or vegetable stock 1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms 3 tablespoons butter or extra-virgin olive oil, at room temperature 1/4 cup finely chopped onion or shallots 1 cup chopped fresh mushrooms of your choice 1 cup pearl barley, rinsed 1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano, marjoram or thyme leaves (may substitute 1/2 teaspoon dried) Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/2 cup dry white wine 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature (optional) Finely chopped fresh parsley for garnish In a medium saucepan, heat the stock just until it almost boils. Transfer 1 cup to a bowl, add the porcini to the bowl and set aside to soak for 10 to 20 minutes. Drain the porcini, reserving the soaking liquid. Coarsely chop the porcini; set aside. Strain the liquid, discarding any solids. Heat the butter or oil in a deep saucepan over medium heat until hot. Add the onion or shallots and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the porcini and fresh mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the barley and cook, stirring, until it is glossy, about 1 minute. Add the herb, salt and pepper to taste and the wine, increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly. Add the strained mushroom-soaking liquid and cook, stirring, until the liquid almost evaporates. Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining stock, about 1/2 cup at a time, and cook, stirring constantly after each addition and adding more stock when the liquid in the barley has just about evaporated. It is important to stir frequently. The barley should be tender and the mixture should be neither soupy nor dry; this should take at least 30 minutes. Remove from the heat. If desired, add the 1 tablespoon butter and stir until incorporated. Garnish with parsley and serve immediately. Per serving (using low-sodium chicken broth and butter): 349 calories, 11 gm protein, 47 gm carbohydrates, 12 gm fat, 30 mg cholesterol, 7 gm saturated fat, 220 mg sodium, 9 gm dietary fiber ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Barley and Shrimp Orzotto (4 servings) The word for barley in Italian is orzo. (Do not confuse it with the rice-shaped pasta that we call orzo in this country.) In the northern Italian region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, where barley (or orzo) is grown, making it risotto-style is common, says Michele Scicolone, author of "Italian Holiday Cooking" (William Morrow, $35). Just for fun, the Italians sometimes call it "orzotto." This is Scicolone's version of orzotto with shrimp. 1 tablespoon olive oil 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 small onion, finely chopped 1 cup pearl barley 1/4 cup finely chopped red bell pepper 1/4 cup finely chopped celery 1/4 cup finely chopped carrots 1/2 cup finely chopped zucchini 4 cups chicken stock or broth Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 8 ounces medium or large shrimp, cut into 1/2-inch pieces Heat the oil and 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat until the butter melts. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 5 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high, add the barley and cook, stirring constantly, until the barley is coated, about 1 minute. Add half of the bell pepper, celery, carrots and zucchini and cook, stirring frequently, for 1 minute. Add the stock or broth and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes. Add the remaining bell pepper, celery, carrots, zucchini and salt and pepper to taste. Cook, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated and the barley is tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon butter until thoroughly incorporated. Serve immediately. Per serving (using low-sodium chicken broth): 403 calories, 21 gm protein, 45 gm carbohydrates, 16 gm fat, 116 mg cholesterol, 7 gm saturated fat, 310 mg sodium, 9 gm dietary fiber ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Barley Pilaf With Mushrooms (4 main-course or 6 side-dish servings) This pilaf is closer to a creamy risotto than a dry pilaf. Despite the 1 1/2 hours-plus cooking time, it's virtually a labor-free dish, perfect for preparing on weekends when you're busy with other chores. From "The Mediterranean Vegan Kitchen" by Donna Klein (HP Books, 2001). 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for the baking dish 1 small onion, chopped 1 small carrot, chopped 1 stalk celery, chopped 1 cup pearl barley 8 ounces white button mushrooms, stems removed and reserved for another use, caps quartered or coarsely chopped 3 3/4 cups vegetable stock or broth (may substitute chicken stock or broth) Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley (optional) 1/4 cup finely chopped pimento (optional) Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil a 2-quart casserole or baking dish that has a lid. Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot and celery and cook, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes. Add the barley and cook, stirring frequently, for 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat; add 1 1/2 cups of the stock or broth, season with salt and pepper to taste and stir to combine. Transfer the mixture to the prepared dish. Cover dish and bake for 30 minutes. Stir in another 1 1/2 cups stock or broth and bake, covered, for 30 minutes more. Add the remaining stock or broth and, if desired, the parsley and/or pimento. Bake, uncovered, for a final 20 to 30 minutes, until most of the liquid has been absorbed by the barley but the mixture is still creamy. Serve warm. Per serving (based on 4, using low-sodium chicken broth): 342 calories, 11 gm protein, 48 gm carbohydrates, 14 gm fat, 5 mg cholesterol, 3 gm saturated fat, 223 mg sodium, 10 gm dietary fiber © 2002 The Washington Post Company